Miniature FM ( Voice ) Transmiter

Parts List:
R1 = 4.7K Q1 = 2N3904
R2 = 330 ohm L1 = see text
C1 = 0.001uF (1nF) Electret mike, antenna, 3V battery (button cell)
C2 = 10-40pF
C3 = 4.7pF
Construction:
This is another easy-to-build miniature transmitter that uses a minimum of parts. Construction is straight forward and non-critical. Although this design uses a 3-volt power source (such as a lithium coin or button cell), a 9-volt battery can be used, instead, by increasing the value of R1 to 15K and R2 to 1K. C4 is an optional RF bypass capacitor that may help improve performance and increase the range a bit. Experiment to find best results.
L1 was made by stripping 22 gauge hookup wire of it's insulation, then wrapping it in the grooves of the screw threads of a 1/4 diameter bolt, and then back-screwing the bolt out of the resulting coil. 8 turns were made around the bolt. By wrapping the turns in the threads, a uniform seperation was made between the coil windings.
If you decide to substitute transistors with something similar you already have, it maybe necessary adjust the collector voltage of Q1 by changing the value of R2 or R3 (because you change transistors, it changes this bias on the base of Q1). It should be about 1/2 the supply voltage (about 4 or 5v).
Notes:
The default for the capacitors type is ceramic, preferably the npo 1% type or equivalent. But basically nothing critical here. Use any capacitor you have laying arround, but no electrolytic or tantalum caps. Don't go out and rush to the store. Most parts can be salvaged from somewhere. Only if you intend to use this circuit outside the home you may want to select more temperature stable capacitors.
I'm not sure about the range. With the 3V supply it is probably around 100 feet or so. The 9V supply will beef up the range considerably, again not tested, but probably in the 300 feet range or so.
To find the signal on your receiver, make sure there is a signal coming into the microphone, otherwise the circuit won't work. I use an old mechanical alarm clock (you know, with those two large bells on it). I put this clock by the microphone which picks up the loud tick-tock. I'm sure you get the idea... Or you can just lightly tap the microphone while searching for the location of the signal on your receiver.

Miniature FM Transmiter

Parts List
R1,R4,R6 = 10K C1,C2 = 0.1uF Q1,Q2 = 2N3904
R2 = 1M C3 = 0.01uF L1 = 0.1uH
R3 = 100K C4 = 4-40pF
R5 = 100 ohm C5 = 4.7pF
R7 = 1K
Construction
This miniature transmitter is easy to construct and it's transmissions can be picked up on any standard FM radio. It has a range of up to 1/4-mile (400 meters) or more, depending on the line-of-sight, obstructions by large buildings, etc. It is great for room monitoring, baby listening, nature research, etc.
L1 is 8 to 10 turns of 22 gauge hookup wire close wound around a non-conductive 1/4-inch diamter form, such as a pencil.
C4 is a small, screw-adjustable, trimmer capacitor.
Set your FM radio for a clear, black space in the lower end of the band (88MHz). Then, with a non-metallic/non-conductive trimmer tool, adjust this capacitor for the clearest reception. A little experimenting and patience may be in order.
Most of the parts values are not critical, so you can try adjusting them to see what happens.
If you decide to substitute transistors with something similar you already have, it maybe necessary adjust the collector voltage of Q1 by changing the value of R2 or R3 (because you change transistors, it changes this bias on the base of Q1). It should be about 1/2 the supply voltage (about 4 or 5v).
Notes
The default for the capacitors type is ceramic, preferably the npo 1% (low noise) type or equivalent. But basically nothing critical here. Use any capacitor you have laying around, but NO electrolytic or tantalum caps. Only if you intend to use this circuit outside the home you may want to select more temperature stable capacitors.
To find the signal on your receiver, make sure there is a signal coming into the microphone, otherwise the circuit won't work. I use an old mechanical alarm clock (you know, with those two large bells on it). I put this clock by the microphone which picks up the loud tick-tock. I'm sure you get the idea... Or you can just lightly tap the microphone while searching for the location of the signal on your receiver.

The circuit transmits on Medium Wave (this is the small problem with the police). IC1a, together

with a sensor (try a 20cm x 20cm sheet of tin foil) oscillates at just over 1MHz. This is modulated by an audio frequency (a continuous beep) produced by IC1b. When a hand or a foot approaches the sensor, the frequency of the transmitter (IC1a) drops appreciably. Suppose now that the circuit transmits at 1MHz. Suppose also that your radio is tuned to a frequency just below this. The 1MHz transmission will therefore not be heard by the radio. But bring a hand or a foot near to the sensor, and the transmitter's frequency will drop, and a beep will be heard from the radio. Attach the antenna to a multiplug adapter that is plugged into the mains, and you will find that the Medium Wave transmission radiates from every wire in your house. Now place a suitably tuned Medium Wave radio near some wires or a plug point in your house, and an early-warning system is set up. Instead of using the sheet of tin foil as the sensor, you could use a doorknob, or burglar bars. Or you could use a pushbutton and series resistor (wired in series with the 33K resistor - the pushbutton would short it out) to decrease the frequency of IC1a, so activating the system by means of a pushbutton switch. In this case, the radio would be tuned to a frequency just below that of the transmitter.

BUZZER

This novel buzzer circuit uses a relay in series with a small audio transformer and speaker. When the switch is pressed, the relay will operate via the transformer primary and closed relay contact. As soon as the relay operates the normally closed contact will open, removing power from the relay, the contacts close and the sequence repeats, all very quickly...so fast that the pulse of current causes fluctuations in the transformer primary, and hence secondary. The speakers tone is thus proportional to relay operating frequency. The capacitor C can be used to "tune" the note. The nominal value is 0.001uF, increasing capacitance lowers the buzzers tone.

MOTOR ALARM

Notes:Any number of normally open switches may be used. Fit the mercury switches so that they close when the steering is moved or when the bike is lifted off its side-stand or pushed forward off its centre-stand. Use micro-switches to protect removable panels and the lids of panniers etc. While at least one switch remains closed, the siren will sound. About two minutes after the switches have been opened again, the alarm will reset. How long it takes to switch off depends on the characteristics of the actual components used. But, up to a point, you can adjust the time to suit your requirements by changing the value of C1.The circuit board and switches must be protected from the elements. Dampness or condensation will cause malfunction. Without its terminal blocks, the board is small. Ideally, you should try to find a siren with enough spare space inside to accommodate it. Fit a 1-amp in-line fuse close to the power source. This protects the wiring. Instead of using a key-switch you can use a hidden switch; or you could use the normally closed contacts of a small relay. Wire the relay coil so that it is energized while the ignition is on. Then every time you turn the ignition off, the alarm will set itself.When it's not sounding, the circuit uses virtually no current. This should make it useful in other circumstances. For example, powered by dry batteries and with the relay and siren voltages to suit, it could be fitted inside a computer or anything else that's in danger of being picked up and carried away. The low standby current and automatic reset means that for this sort of application an external on/off switch may not be necessary.The Support Material for this alarm includes a detailed guide to the construction of the circuit-board, a parts list, a complete circuit description and more.

WATER LEVEL ALARM

The conductance of fluids:
Conductance is the reciprocal of resistance. The conductance of fluids vary with temperature, volume and separation distance of the measurement probes. Tap water has a conductance of about 50 uS / cm measured at 25 C. This is 20k/cm at 25 C. See this site for more details about the conductance of fluids.

Notes:
This circuit will trigger with any fluid with a resistance under 900K between the maximum separation distance of the probes. Let me explain further. The circuit uses a 4050B CMOS hex buffer working on a 5 volt supply. All gates are biased off by the 10M resistors connected between ground and buffer input. The "common" probe the topmost probe above probe 1 in the diagram above is connected to the positive 5 volt supply. If probe 1 is spaced 1 cm away from the common probe and tap water at 25 C is detected between the probes (a resistance of 20k) then the top gate is activated and the LED 1 will light. Similarly if probe 2 at 2 cm distance from the common probe detects water, LED 2 will light and so on. Switch 1 is used to select which output from the hex buffer will trigger the audible oscillator made from the gates of a CMOS 4011B IC.

Placement of Probes:
As 7 wires are needed for the probe I reccommend the use of 8 way computer ribbon cable. The first two wires may be doubled and act as the common probe wire. Each subsequent wire may be cut to required length, if required a couple of millimetres of insulation may be stripped back, though the open "cut off" wire end should be sufficient to act as the probe. The fluid and distance between probe 6 and the common probe wire must be less than 900k. This is because any voltage below 0.5 Volt is detected by the CMOS IC as logic 0. A quick potential check using a 900k resistance and the divider formed with the 10M resistor at the input proves this point:
5 x (0.9 / (0.9+10) = 0.41 Volt.
As this voltage is below 0.5 volt it is interpreted as a logic 0 and the LED will light. If measuring tap water at 25 C then the distance between top probe and common may be up to 45 cm apart. For other temperatures and fluids, it is advisable to use an ohmmeter first. When placing the probes the common probe must be the lowest placed probe, as the water level rises, it will first pass probe 1, then 2 and finally probe 6.